It is not possible here to give more than a general outline of the principles underlying timing, but as an approximation it can be assumed that a burl is formed on a giant decorative approximately six weeks after stopping, provided the plant at the time is in a fit state to be stopped, as explained earlier in the chapter, and that it will take a further four weeks for this bud to expand to the maximum sized bloom.
It is important to remember that the dahlia, although a very strong growing plant, is at its weakest during the first few weeks after planting, and that two things are essential during this period.
The first is the removal of all competition from weeds. The ground should be kept scrupulously clear of weeds by using a dutch hoe at reasonably frequent intervals during the first few weeks after planting. Later the use of a hoe will be inadvisable owing to the presence of feeder roots close to the surface.
To prevent branches from being forced out of the socket by their own weight (this is particularly prevalent in branches developing low on the main stem), it is an excellent plan to insert short lengths of cane exactly parallel with each branch and to tie the branch to this support. This will give ample support until such time as the branch becomes long enough to be secured in the normal fashion to the main stake or wires.
Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.
If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide. - 16887
It is important to remember that the dahlia, although a very strong growing plant, is at its weakest during the first few weeks after planting, and that two things are essential during this period.
The first is the removal of all competition from weeds. The ground should be kept scrupulously clear of weeds by using a dutch hoe at reasonably frequent intervals during the first few weeks after planting. Later the use of a hoe will be inadvisable owing to the presence of feeder roots close to the surface.
To prevent branches from being forced out of the socket by their own weight (this is particularly prevalent in branches developing low on the main stem), it is an excellent plan to insert short lengths of cane exactly parallel with each branch and to tie the branch to this support. This will give ample support until such time as the branch becomes long enough to be secured in the normal fashion to the main stake or wires.
Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.
If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide. - 16887
No comments:
Post a Comment