Saturday, December 20, 2008

California Surfing

By Jimmy Johnson

I guarantee that for many of us the Beach Boys music will make us feel the warm glow of the California sunshine and hear the sound of the waves. The excitement of joy of those songs launched the phenomena of surfing to the world and growing up in places like San Francisco it was probably always part of your life as it was mine. The consistent glorious Californian weather, the ideal beaches and the surfer's favorite Pacific waves mean that for many California surfing became their whole life.

If you are California coast born and bred it is your birthright to cut classes and head for the surf with some food some water and your old board. And if the conditions are really bad you've still got the drama of the ocean and the beaches that is a world away from the all those states surrounded by other states, untouched by the sea breezes.

Some people believe that it is easy to just locate a beach on the coast, throw on your suit and start paddling. Only very ignorant people attempt such a thing. The best waves are known to be off the coast of Santa Cruz and parts of Southern California, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a secluded beach that only you have thought of for surfing. Normally if no one is in the vicinity, the waves are either bad or you have to contend with sharks. Though there will be no signs, it is a safe bet to look elsewhere along the coast if you have never gone California surfing.

But then you have to contend with the human variety of shark. There is a territorial behavior pattern to be observed if you want to catch a wave or two rather than a cold or a bloody nose. The genus California surfer dude is an amphibious predator at the top of the local food chain. They have been known to attack pack outsiders without provocation. Give them plenty of space and never try to steal a march on their wave because they will ride over your head and leave you to their professional colleagues, the sharks.

For many devotees California surfing is their life, their love, their religion. They give up what we might call a 'normal' way of life to pursue their nirvana. You only have to go to a California surfing competition to see the enormous skill level and commitment that many of these surfers exhibit to understand that you are looking at some of the best surfers on the globe. California surfing is unique and if you've heard a California surfer talking his sport you will be in no doubt that for many it takes them to places that most of us can only dream of. - 16887

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