Although it is invariably categorized Hybrid Teas, this variety is so vigorous that it would be better and more appropriately transferred to the shrub types. It has been grown widely as a windbreak hedge, and some years ago, when visiting a customer at Angmering in Sussex, I found a hedge backing directly on to the beach that was every bit of 10ft (3m) high, covered in bloom, and obviously cocking a snook at the salt-laden breezes! As you are asking for a barrier, this is how I suggest that you deal with this hedge from now on. As soon as the growth buds begin to swell next spring, I would prune back all the older stems very hard to sideways-pointing buds, ideally no more than 1 ft (0.3m) from ground level, leaving no more than three or four stems, and these reduce by about a half. The result of this will be most vigorous reaction, with strong stems being thrown up from low down. What you do with them depends on the kind and height of hedge you are looking for. You want a barrier, and presumably one with lots of blooms, so, as the vigorous stems grow tall and while they are still soft and pliable, bend them down and tie them together with stems from the adjacent plant so that they lay horizontal and looped.
A frequent cause for disappointment with containers exposed as this one will be is due to direct sunlight on the container sides, which heat up and become hot - you cannot expect roses, or any other plants, to grow with baked roots. One solution may be to use a metal or fibreglass container inside a timber or other attractive outer casing, in which case make sure there is an inch (2.5cm) or so clearance for ventilation and for heat to disperse.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Obviously, we cannot remove the redundant stems in one piece, they have to be traced out from the first cut and removed piecemeal. Almost inevitably, you will be bound to miss pieces here and there, but not to worry, they will show out in a day or two as they wilt. Every piece must come out because leaving bits to die and remain is to ask for coral spot fungus to put in an appearance.
Finally, other than to repeat the similarities with the previous question, a climber growing in these conditions provides one of the exceptions to general rules. Dead-heading is good and usual practice in order to prevent a plant dissipating its energies into seed production and to concentrate on new growth for the following season.
The need to protect with insecticides and fungicides is therefore all the greater. Otherwise treat them as conventional bushes. - 16887
A frequent cause for disappointment with containers exposed as this one will be is due to direct sunlight on the container sides, which heat up and become hot - you cannot expect roses, or any other plants, to grow with baked roots. One solution may be to use a metal or fibreglass container inside a timber or other attractive outer casing, in which case make sure there is an inch (2.5cm) or so clearance for ventilation and for heat to disperse.
Roses do not like root disturbance, and while it may be possible during the dormant season to turn out and replant a miniature rose in a small container, you are hardly likely to be able to do this with a container of this size. The gradual build-up of nutrient and trace element deficiency therefore is a distinct possibility. This is a very big argument in favour of using an organic source like Humber and, because it is practical on a soil surface area of this dimension, maintaining a mulch cover.
Obviously, we cannot remove the redundant stems in one piece, they have to be traced out from the first cut and removed piecemeal. Almost inevitably, you will be bound to miss pieces here and there, but not to worry, they will show out in a day or two as they wilt. Every piece must come out because leaving bits to die and remain is to ask for coral spot fungus to put in an appearance.
Finally, other than to repeat the similarities with the previous question, a climber growing in these conditions provides one of the exceptions to general rules. Dead-heading is good and usual practice in order to prevent a plant dissipating its energies into seed production and to concentrate on new growth for the following season.
The need to protect with insecticides and fungicides is therefore all the greater. Otherwise treat them as conventional bushes. - 16887
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